Attitude is Everything

Anyone who has watched horses in a herd interacting with one another has witnessed an extensive amount of communication taking place via body language.  Horses don’t have any kind of sophisticated audio language that I’m aware of unless they communicate with some sort of sub-audible frequency that is imperceptible to human ears and hasn’t yet been discovered. Their entire vocabulary consists of a few basic sounds that are pretty easy to interpret.  What is much more sophisticated and complex, however, is their physical communication.  Horses are masters of body language.  They pay attention to the slightest movement another horse might make and understand what this movement signifies.

We humans on the other hand have come to rely so much on verbal communication that we tend to forget how much information body language can really communicate.  This is especially true when working with horses.  We may not speak the same body language as horses, but they are masters at this stuff.  It doesn’t take long for them to learn a new language and start interpreting every move you make.  Because of this, we have to be keenly aware of what signals we give to our horses when we work with them. 

Horses’ ability to read and assign meaning to every move I make has caused me to develop a particular aspect of my horsemanship that as a human I wasn’t initially aware of, my attitude.  I’ve come to realize that my attitude is one of the most influential components of my communication with horses.  Now, I’m not talking about my own personal attitude and things like staying positive or being open minded.  This is more interpersonal than intrapersonal.  What I’m talking about is the attitude I convey to my horse.  Once again, horses are masters of body language and because of this they will pick up whatever attitude I convey. 

Of course, your attitude can negatively influence your horse’s behavior.  If I’m working with a horse that is excited and nervous about something, I am likely to get a little excited and nervous too.  Well guess what happens when I get excited and nervous in this situation.  My horse sees the way I’m acting and thinks to himself, “I knew there was something to be worried about!  This must be even worse than I thought.”  I just confirmed all of my horse’s fears, plus added to all that nervous energy that was already floating around.

 Fortunately, with a little practice you can learn to convey a different attitude in this same situation and affect your horse’s behavior in a positive way.  Whenever I’m working with a horse that is excited and nervous about something, I always try to behave in in a way that would be equivalent to asking my horse, “What are you so worried about?”  Now I may know that a particular situation is terribly frightening to a horse, but I don’t ever want to let him know that I know it’s scary to him.  I always want to send him the message that he is the only one who is excited and would probably be better off to just calm down like everyone else.  To help myself with this, I often find myself verbalizing the message I’m trying to convey.  I don’t do this because I think my horse understands what I’m saying, I do it because I’m a human and I best understand verbal communication and this will help me to say the things I want to say with my body.  I’m also not always aware that I’m doing it and I probably look like a crazy person when I do it.

This power of attitude is effective in many different situations and should be practiced in everything you do with your horse.  When I’m asking my horse to do something he thinks is difficult, for instance going over a jump for the first time, I want to have the attitude that this is really no big deal.  I want my horse to think that I’m not worried or excited about this and that I may not even really care about it.  It’s almost as though I’m saying to my horse, “Oh, is there something in the way?  I didn’t even notice.  I was simply asking you to go in a straight line in which a jump happened to be set up.”   On the inside, I might be all excited and hoping that he goes over the jump, but I don’t want to let him know this.  As far as he can tell I couldn’t be less excited about the jump.  This practice works when I’m giving a horse its first bath.  I act as though the water is such a non-issue that I’m not even aware of it.  I want her to think that the water just happened to spray her on the leg, not that I purposely intended for it to happen.  There’s no reason to be scared of it because nobody else is.  Of course, I will have the discretion not to spray her directly in the face right away, but if I accidentally do, I want to act like it was no big deal.

Make sure that when you work with your horse you remain aware of just how perceptive he is to your body language.  The most effective way to control your body language is to try to convey the attitude you want your horse to believe you have.  It isn’t necessarily easy, but you can do it if you just stay aware of it.  Good luck.      

The Energy Constant

Those of us who have ever taken any kind of science class have had to learn some sort of constant.  There is always some non-changing value named after an old scientist that we have to memorize and use to solve equations that we’ll never actually have to solve in real life.  Well I have discovered my own constant.  It’s an energy level constant that we need to keep in mind when working with horses.  Unfortunately, this constant is more qualitative than quantitative so I can’t assign a numerical value to it, or put my name on it to make myself famous and make students memorize it for generations to come. 

So what is this energy constant I refer to?  As we all know, every horse is an individual and has its own individual characteristics.  Some horses are big bundles of energy and some are more reminiscent of a Basset Hound, but no matter which kind of horse I work with, there is a certain energy level we will need to operate on to have any kind of success.  This energy level is more or less constant for all horses.  They all need to be operating around the same energy level to have a productive learning and working experience.  Our own energy level combined with that of our horse should add up to equal this energy level on which we and our horses should operate.

We can help our horses to operate at this level if we adjust our own energy levels to balance those of our horses.  For example, if I’m riding a horse that barely has enough energy to walk to its own feeder, I need to contribute lots of energy to help bring the overall level up to where it needs to be.  Similarly, if I’m riding a horse that feels more like a jumpy little meerkat, I need to introduce very little of my own energy to the equation to get us to the proper level.  It’s a really simple concept.  If my horse only contributes 20% of the energy we need to operate at the desired energy level, I need to add the remaining 80%.  If my horse contributes 90%, I have to make sure to only add 10%.  There is also the occasional horse that operates around 120% of what is needed and I therefore have to find a way to bring that energy level down to where it belongs.

Now let me clarify what kind of energy I want to display to my horse.  Any energy I give must be calm energy.  I never under any circumstances want to display nervous or anxious energy.  Even when I’m trying to get my horse to show a little more life, I want to always remain calm and help my horse to remain calm.  If I ever get excited and convey to my horse that I’m nervous, my horse will instantly get scared and switch from learning mode to survival mode.  I sometimes have to be able to overcome my own instincts and feelings to make sure that I present to my horse a picture of calm confidence.  Even when encouraging a lazy horse to have more energy I try to remain calm.  I might exaggerate some of my movements and be more demonstrative in asking them to move, but I never act excited or anxious. 

Another important thing to keep in mind is that our horses don’t remain at the same energy level throughout our ride.   The situation is liquid and a horse can one moment act as though it is half asleep and the next moment act as though it is going to jump out of its skin.  Because of this, we obviously must frequently adjust our own energy levels to match those of our horses throughout the ride.  Always try to keep in mind what your horse’s needs are regarding the energy you bring to the overall equation.

If it Looks Like a Duck...

 Something that I always have to keep in mind when I work with my horses is the fact that there is a major fundamental difference between me and them.  This particular difference doesn’t exist between me and the dogs I have worked with.  The difference I’m referring to is the difference between a predator and a prey animal, and this difference is hard to overestimate in significance. 

Prey animals have an almost entirely different view of the world around them than predators do.  They have to.  In order for them to survive they have to assume the whole world is out to get them.  We’ve probably all seen the nature programs featuring weary zebras gathered at a watering hole when a harmless looking log comes floating by.  The one zebra that assumes it is safe when all the others run away is the one who gets eaten by the crocodile that appeared to be a log. 

Predators on the other hand have to view the world around them as one big opportunity.  They never know when or where their next meal will be, so they don’t get to be picky about things.  I once read a quote from a natural horseman stating that he knows for a fact that horses are smarter than dogs.  His reasoning was that he had seen dogs be hurt by something only to return and be hurt again.  He said a horse would learn the first time and never be hurt by something twice.  I have to disagree with his theory.  This has nothing to do with intelligence and everything to do with the nature of predator and prey.  A predator has to be persistent and tenacious.  If a lioness gets hurt by a cape buffalo and refuses to ever hunt again, she’s going to starve to death.  On the other hand, if a prey animal lets itself be hurt by anything, it can’t run away and defend itself and has therefore been issued a death sentence.  Prey animals also don’t have to be as persistent or tenacious because their food stand still and waits for them. 

Now that I’ve discussed the main differences between a predator and a prey animal, I will discuss why it is relevant to this blog.  Horses (i.e. prey animals) view things much differently than we do (i.e. predators).  This means that many of the things we can get away with when working with people, dogs, or cats will not fly with horses.  Horses know that if it looks like a predator, smells like a predator, and acts like a predator; it’s a predator. 

So what does this mean for us?  Think about this.  The first thing a horse does when encountering something new (i.e. you) is assess its risk level.  If this thing is judged to be a predator, then it isn’t in the horse’s best interest to hang around.  Now, think about this.  The first thing you do when working with a horse is come walking in on two legs with your eyes both on the front of your head instead of on the side (If it looks like a predator…).  Then, although you’re not aware of it, you smell like all kinds of predator stuff like meat and dead cow skin (If it smells like a predator…).  Finally, you sneak up to the horse with a halter in your hand hoping he won’t see you as a threat and run away (If it acts like a predator…).  Guess what you have just become in the horses eyes.  A predator! 

So often when we work with horses we act like predators and don’t even know it.  It’s easy to do.  After all, we are predators.  We don’t often think like horses do.  We think like people.  Because of this, when we work with horses we constantly send them in and out of prey mode, not knowing whether they should be comfortable with us or afraid of us. 

One thing that we predators frequently to do that a fellow prey animal would seldom do is to focus on one thing we want to do to our horses.  This instantly sends up a huge warning flag to your horse.  For an example, think about something simple like trying to touch your horse on a certain part of his body.  Maybe you’re trying to apply medicine to that particular spot.  You focus on that spot.  You may start slowly and work your way up to it, but your horse can tell what your intentions are.  He can sense you single minded determination to get to that one particular spot.  Now, how many times has he ever felt another horse do this to him?  Horses touch each other with no particular regard for where they are touching.  They touch and rub and scratch without a real care as to where they are.  Now referring back to the nature program, how many times have you seen a lioness attack a zebra and focus on getting to its jugular vein?  That’s all that lioness seems to think about.  They seem to have a single minded determination to get to that one spot.  Sound familiar?

It’s important when we work with our horses to always keep in mind how our behavior might look to our horses.  Something you do might be completely innocent yet send up warning flags for your horse.  We do it all the time.  I could offer more examples than you want to sit here and read.  After reading this, you might ask, “How do I ever catch my horse if I can’t focus on one particular goal?  I’ll seem like a predator.”  Obviously, sometimes we have to focus on one particular thing with or horse.  It’s unavoidable.  I could never catch a horse without him knowing that I was trying to do something in particular to him.  The advice I give is to at least try to approach him like another horse would.  Don’t show signs of that single minded determination to get to his head and put something on it. 

Since I’m on the subject of predator-like  behavior, let me say something about the most predator like behavior of all.  There is one thing you can do that will tell your horse with absolute certainty that you are indeed a predator.  The worst thing you can do is attack your horse.  Keep in mind, there is a HUGE difference between disciplining your horse and attacking him.  Mother horses discipline their babies.  Dominant horses discipline the other horses in a herd.  Only predators attack them.  To state simply the difference between discipline and an attack:  discipline is an immediate, straight forward response to something your horse does wrong; an attack is malicious and ongoing.  If your horse bites you and you respond with an almost immediate swat, or better yet, several seconds of hard work, you have disciplined your horse similarly to how another horse would have.  If your horse bites you and you begin to chase him around whipping him or hitting him in the head, you are attacking him like a predator would.  It might all seem the same to you but there is a big difference to your horse.  When you attack, you become a predator and instantly send your horse's mind from learning mode to scared self-preservation mode.

I hope my perspective on this issue can help you in some way.  I have learned for myself the completely different ways I and my horse can view my actions.  In the past, I have unknowingly acted like a predator and I found out that I was never happy with the results.  You don’t always have to act like your horse’s best friend, but you never want to act like his predator.

Softness in Diverse Horses

Hi everyone,

Thanks to all who read my last post.  I hope you found it helpful and informative and that this new post will be the same.  Today I’m going to talk about a pretty hot topic in the world of horsemanship, the topic of softness.  So what is softness anyway?  There are different standards and definitions for softness depending on whom you ask.  My friends who compete in dressage speak of both internal and external softness.  Natural horsemen constantly preach the importance of softness.  The old California vaqueros prided themselves on their ability to have soft hands.  No matter where you go or what you do with horses, you are going to hear about softness and its importance and value.

Now, let me tell you something I’ve figured in my time working with horses.  This whole softness issue can be a little more confusing and difficult than it might first seem.  I’ve spent a lot of time working on softness and I’ve learned a lot of things about it through trial and error.  I will try to share with you what I consider softness to be and some ways to achieve it.

First I will give my own definition of softness.  To me, softness is my horse’s willingness to yield any part of her body to pressure when I ask.  It’s a pretty simple concept.  I think most people understand this much.  What’s not as simple is how to go about getting this softness from your horse.  It can be difficult. 

Here’s a profound bit of information that everybody who works with horses knows but far too few of us keep in mind: All horses are different.  Seriously, every horse is unique and has its own unique needs.  They are all very similar, but they are still different in little ways that we humans have to be able to adapt to.  Because all horses are different, no one can give one single way to make all horses be soft and willing to yield to pressure.  Some people may try to, but trust me, it won’t always work. 

What I can do is tell you the basic things that you have to do with all horses and some of the ways that I have had to adjust these things to fit different horses.  An important point to remember is that not all horses have the same level of inherent softness.  We can’t expect them all to feel exactly the same when we’re done.  One thing I do expect from all my horses however, is a willingness to be soft.  This is where softness comes from. 

The most basic way I can ask your horse for softness is to flex her head laterally while I stand next to her.  When I ask my horse to flex laterally, I expect her to willingly turn her head.  I do NOT want to pull her head to the side.  If I get into a pulling contest with my horse I will definitely lose.  I simply want to give my horse a signal to flex her head and have her do so.  The simple way to do this is to take the slack out of my rein and wait for my horse to put the slack back in it and keep it there.  First she’s going to fight against it by rooting at the rein, walking in a tiny circle, backing up, turning her head the opposite way, and anything else she thinks might work to get me to let go of the rein.  During this time, I’m going to do whatever it takes to keep the tension in the rein.  Eventually, she will try the right thing (yielding to the rein and putting slack back in it) and I will then release.  It’s very important that I keep steady pressure while she is resisting and give consistent release when she yields. 

It’s a very simple concept and this same softness that I get in the rein I will expect when I ask her to yield to my leg when I ride her, lift her foot when I ask her to, back up when I’m on the ground, and literally everything else I ever do with her that involves her yielding to pressure. 

Now for what most of you are probably saying to yourselves right now.  This can all be harder than I make it sound.  Yes, it absolutely can be, and at times will be, harder than I make it sound here.  There are countless things your horse can do to make what I described above seem almost impossible.  Fortunately, there are countless ways to deal with whatever they throw at you.  There are also many other factors that go into helping your horse soften (like yielding to your leg, rounding her back, etc.) far too many to list here.  I will discuss many of them in future posts.  What is important is the basic concept I described.  It is the fundamental concept that all of your softness training should be based upon.  If you keep this simple procedure in mind, everything that your horse requires of you will be easier for you and clearer to your horse.   

Softness is simple, yet it is perhaps the most important factor in your success in working with your horse.  It isn’t magic.  Soft hands aren’t something you are just naturally gifted with at birth (although I was made to believe this for years).  Soft hands and soft horses are developed over time when riders are consistent and persistent in asking for softness with the correct ideal in mind.  Always keep an open mind and be willing to adapt to your horse’s needs and all of the variables will seem to fit into place. 

Good luck with everything and I hope that you find this information useful.   

Ty Brazeal

P.S. Any comments you have are always appreciated.         

Missing element that can solve a variety of problem behaviors in your horse.

For my first blog ever, I want to write about one of the problems I see most frequently when working with horses and one which I have already dealt with a couple of times today.  The problem I am talking about is the lack of good forward movement. 

It still surprises me sometimes how often I encounter this specific problem.  It is also sometimes surprising to horses’ riders when I tell them that their horses don’t really know how to move forward well enough.  Many of them have ridden their horses with this problem for years and never known it.  Perhaps most surprising of all are all of the negative ways that a lack of forward movement can manifest itself and cause problems for you and your horse. 

To start I will explain what I consider to be good forward movement.  It’s really simple.  When I ask my horse to go forward, I want him to go forward right then and there.  No matter what situation the horse is in or how difficult he might think it would be to go forward, he needs to go forward when I ask. 

Now I know that every horse in the world can go forward.  They do it within about an hour of being born.  Just go out and climb up on an untrained horse and he will likely go forward so fast that he leaves you piled up on the ground behind him.  All horses can go forward without us even telling them to, right?

Yes, all horses can go forward, but surprisingly few of them will do it when asked no matter what.  Just this morning I was working with a recently retired racehorse.  If any horse in the world knows how to go forward it’s a racehorse.  When I finally started to step up on the horse, I didn’t feel that he was ready to be ridden.  Do you want to guess what was missing?  Forward movement!

Now, here’s a simple exercise to test your horses forward movement.  Turn his head to one side, preferably more than 45 degrees, and ask him to go forward.  What should happen is the horse moving forward in a nice little circle following his nose.  Kind of like he’s on a little circular train track.  Now, here are a few of the wrong things he might do instead: Take a step backward, take a step to the side like he’s about to fall down, jerk his head back straight and walk off, stand in one place endlessly disengaging his hindquarters while never moving his front feet forward. 

If you can’t put your horse in this simple position and get him to move forward, then you lack forward movement.  Here’s another list.  This list includes some of the behaviors that are either a direct result of a lack of forward movement or can be easily fixed my improving forward movement: Backing up when not asked, rearing, being stiff throughout the body, bucking, picking up the wrong lead, tossing of the head, not turning, kicking up, biting at your leg, stopping to graze while you’re riding, running sideways, sloppy spins when reining, backing up while leg yielding, and many additional ways that you’re probably getting too tired to read.

Ok, now for some answers about how to fix this.  First I have to say: Do NOT attempt to do any of these things if you aren’t an experienced and proficient rider.  Since I can’t see you ride, I can’t make an assessment of your ability and it is therefore up to you to decide if you need to seek help from someone else. 

The simplest way for me to fix a lack of forward movement is to work with a horse until I find a particular situation in which he tells me no when I tell him to move forward.  This usually happens when I turn his head and ask him to move forward as described above but there are many other situations in which a horse will get stuck and not go forward.  I always begin this work on the ground and don't progress to his back until I feel he is ready.  Inevitably there will be some situation in which the horse thinks he cannot, should not, or will not move forward.  It is in this situation that I can best establish forward movement.  It is a simple concept that can be difficult to implement.  In this situation when my horse is refusing to go forward, I simply find a way to ultimately make him do it.  This usually involves waiting out his refusal while continuously asking him to go forward and not letting up until he does.  I like to ask my horse to go forward by first spanking my own leg and then moving back and spanking him on the haunches until he goes forward.  I do NOT like to spur my horse to make him go forward.  If you start jabbing your horse with your spurs, you will very likely cause him to do something very dangerous (i.e. flip over, buck).  The most important thing to remember is to stay calm and consistent and always put your safety first.

I know, easier said than done.  I reiterate: Don’t hesitate to seek outside help when working with a horse.  Stay positive and stay happy.  None of this stuff is too much to handle.  Good luck and let me know if you have any questions.